Our Madrid18—21.09.2026Last checked 08.09.2026

Madrid, the way we'd show you

Not another tourist checklist. These are places we genuinely like, hidden corners we would show friends and a few things happening specifically during our wedding weekend.

Pick a mood. Stop for a vermouth. Get lost. That's usually when Madrid is at its best.

If you only remember a few things

A short list for guests who would rather enjoy Madrid than research it.

A very Madrid lunch
Casa Dani or La Montería
A memorable dinner
Ronda 14, Cilindro or Sala de Despiece
A relaxed tapas stop
Vinos de Bellota or Baco y Beto
A sunset
Las Siete Tetas or Templo de Debod
A fully vegan dinner
Mudrá or Santa y Pura
Something genuinely unusual
Andén 0 or Frontón Beti Jai

What are you in the mood for?

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Showing every place and plan.

Hidden Madrid

Forgotten stations, impossible buildings and quieter corners hiding in plain sight.

Andén 0 — Chamberí Station

A metro station frozen in time, with its original platform, tiles, signs and ceramic advertisements. Very Madrid and genuinely unusual.

Wedding-weekend hours: Friday 16:00–20:00; Saturday 10:00–14:00 and 16:00–20:00; Sunday 10:00–14:00. Free advance reservation required.

Map Information & booking

Frontón Beti Jai

An enormous 19th-century Basque pelota stadium hidden inside an ordinary city block. Possibly the best “how is this here?” place on this list.

Permanent self-guided access is available Tuesday–Sunday; wedding-weekend hours are scheduled for 10:00–18:00.

Map Official information

El Capricho Park

Romantic gardens, small temples, a palace, ponds and landscaped paths. It feels completely different from Retiro.

September: weekends and public holidays, 09:00–21:00. Food, pets, bicycles and skates are not allowed. The Civil War bunker needs a separate confirmed Pasea Madrid reservation.

Map Official information Pasea Madrid

Museo Cerralbo

An ornate late-19th-century aristocratic home that feels much more intimate than Madrid's major museums.

Tuesday–Saturday 09:30–15:00; Thursday also 17:00–20:00; Sunday 10:00–15:00; Monday closed. Free Thursday 17:00–19:00 and Sunday.

Map Official information

Jardín del Príncipe de Anglona

A tiny aristocratic garden hidden behind a brick wall. Make it a secret stop between Plaza de la Paja, La Latina tapas and Las Vistillas.

Map Official information

Jardines de Cecilio Rodríguez

Formal gardens, fountains, pergolas and peacocks tucked away inside Retiro. Combine them with the Crystal Palace, lake and Cuesta de Moyano.

Retiro or individual gardens may close because of wind or extreme weather.

Map Retiro information

Campo del Moro

Quiet gardens beneath the Royal Palace with one of its best perspectives. Weather and official events can affect access.

Map Official information

Monumento a Alfonso XII Viewpoint

The monument overlooking Retiro's lake sometimes opens its internal viewpoint through Pasea Madrid. There are 97 steps and no lift.

Booking status: The second 2026 Pasea Madrid season had not been announced when this guide was checked. Treat it as a bonus only if you secure an official place.

Map Official information

Cuesta de Moyano

A pedestrian street lined with permanent stalls selling new, second-hand and antique books. Each stall keeps its own hours.

Map Official information

Views, parks and an easy escape

For a little air, a wide horizon or a drink above the rooftops.

Las Siete Tetas — Cerro del Tío Pío

Seven grassy hills with one of the widest views of Madrid's skyline. Less polished, more local and especially beautiful around sunset.

Metro Buenos Aires or Portazgo, both on Line 1. There is a small kiosk/terrace in the park.

Map Official information

Templo de Debod

A deservedly classic sunset spot. Arrive early, sit on the grass and watch the sky change behind the temple and Casa de Campo.

Public drinking is not permitted in Madrid's streets and parks, so save the beer for a nearby terrace.

Map Official information

Círculo de Bellas Artes Rooftop

An easy central option for a drink with a great view over Gran Vía and the skyline. Current rooftop access is around €6; food and drinks are separate.

Map Official information

RIU Plaza España Rooftop — 360º

A much more dramatic panoramic rooftop, with the glass walkway everyone photographs. It gets busy at sunset; reserve if this is a definite plan.

Map Information & booking

Casa de Campo + Villa Verbena

Walk around the lake and eat at Villa Verbena. The lakeside setting turns lunch into a slow half-day outside the centre.

Map Book

Only this wedding weekend

Good timing: all of these overlap with 18–21 September 2026.

Hotel Tapa Tour

Some of Madrid's best hotels create special tapas that anyone can try without staying there. Follow a route or find a participating hotel nearby.

Best for us: Friday afternoon or Sunday recovery. Each hotel sets its own serving hours.

Festival routes

L.E.V. Matadero

Audiovisual installations, experimental music, performances, extended reality and interactive art. Probably the coolest temporary event of the weekend.

Map Programme & tickets

La Odisea — El viaje inmersivo

A new Spanish-and-English immersive experience reimagining Homer's Odyssey through virtual reality, 360° projections and theatrical environments.

Map Information & tickets

PROYECTOR 2026

An international video-art festival across galleries, museums, artist studios and independent spaces. Find a participating venue close to your existing plans.

Festival programme

Mercado de las Ranas

A neighbourhood street market around Calle de las Huertas, with local shops, food and design. Lovely before the wedding — but leave enough time to get ready.

Map Official information

Madrid Corre por Madrid

The race affects Paseo de la Castellana, Calle de Alcalá and Gran Vía. Expect road closures, taxi delays and bus diversions; leave extra time for the airport or train station.

Metro is likely to be the safest way to avoid road traffic.

Event information Race route

Eat like us

Personal recommendations, grouped by neighbourhood. Prices are approximate per person: € under €20 · €€ €20–40 · €€€ €40–70 · €€€€ €70+.

La Latina and Barrio de las Letras

One correction from our old list: Matador is in Barrio de las Letras, not La Latina.

Matador

A tiny, characterful stop for a caña, vermouth and a few tapas while walking through the centre. Keep it simple and enjoy the room.

Map Current listing

Ibiza, Retiro and O'Donnell

Excellent Spanish food, wine bars and one serious Japanese splurge.

La Montería

One of our favourite examples of contemporary Spanish food. Meat and fish are excellent and the wine list is worth exploring.

Map Official site

La Monte

La Montería's sister restaurant, not another name for the same place. Creative Spanish cooking, grilled meat, fish and good wine.

Map Official site

Taberna El Capricho

Traditional Spanish food done very well: familiar tapas, seafood, meat and rice dishes in a lively neighbourhood taberna.

Map Official site

Vinos de Bellota

A friendly tapas and wine bar with excellent food, fairly priced bottles and an outdoor terrace. Closed Monday.

Map Menu

OTORO Tapas Omakase

Japanese tapas, sushi and omakase with excellent produce. This is a proper splurge now: tasting menus are around €70, €90 and €110; à la carte is also available.

Map Menu Book

Chamberí

From a no-frills tapas bar to one of contemporary Madrid's classics.

La Mina

A classic, tiny tapas bar for beer, seafood and simple raciones. It gets crowded, which is part of the experience.

Map Visitor information

Sagaretxe

The correct spelling of the “Saxaretxe” in our old notes. A Basque cider house and pintxos bar, best for sharing several small things.

Map Official site

Sala de Despiece — SDD1

A modern Madrid classic with theatrical presentation, counter seating and brilliantly handled produce. Try the “Rolex.”

New address: The original Ponzano location closed; SDD1 moved to Calle de Alonso Cano, 28.

Map Official site & booking

Salamanca and Lista

Tortilla, Spanish–Peruvian fusion and the loudest splurge in this guide.

Juana La Loca — Recoletos

Creative Spanish plates in the spirit of the La Latina original. The tortilla pincho remains a “yes or yes” order.

Important: The original Puerta de Moros restaurant closed. Use Recoletos, 10 or the other current branch at Menorca, 3.

Recoletos map Menorca map Book

Cilindro

Spanish–Peruvian cooking built around charcoal, ceviches, tiraditos and rice dishes. Same family as Ronda 14 and consistently delicious.

Map Official site

Ronda 14

Asturian–Peruvian / Nikkei fusion from the same owners as Cilindro. Go with people who like sharing so you can try more of the menu.

Map Official site

StreetXO

Wild, maximalist street-food-inspired cooking by Dabiz Muñoz. Expensive, loud and certainly memorable — roughly €70–110+ per person.

StreetXO itself is not Michelin-starred; Muñoz's fine-dining restaurant DiverXO holds three stars. Food bar: 13:00–15:30 and 20:00–23:00 daily.

Map Official information

Casa Dani

One of Madrid's most famous tortillas — and one of the few “best tortilla” claims we happily send people to test.

Monday–Friday 07:00–19:30; Saturday until 16:30; Sunday closed.

Map Official information

Malasaña

Tortilla and vermouth, from easygoing to gloriously old-school.

Pez Tortilla

A casual stop for trying different tortillas and croquetas, with craft beer alongside. The tortilla is, of course, the point.

Map Official site

Bodega de la Ardosa

A beautiful old-school bodega for vermouth, beer, tortilla and classic tapas. Famous and often packed; try outside peak hours.

Map Visitor information

Casa Camacho

A wonderfully old-style bar for vermouth. Try a yayo — vermouth, gin and soda. Do not expect ceremony; that is part of the charm.

Map Visitor information

Chueca, Justicia and Las Salesas

Easy sharing plates, wine and one intimate special-occasion restaurant.

Gastromaquia

A warm, unpretentious restaurant with Spanish and Mediterranean plates, fish and rice dishes. Proper food without making the evening too formal.

Map Instagram

Cannibal Raw Bar Madrid

Despite the name, it is not only raw food: expect ceviches, tartares, seafood, fish and meat in a stylish but relaxed room.

Map Official site

Baco y Beto

A very good little wine-and-tapas bar with well-made plates drawing on Spanish, Italian and French ideas. One for sharing.

Map Local information

La Buena Vida

A small, elegant neighbourhood restaurant with seasonal Spanish produce and a serious wine list. Intimate enough that this is one to plan.

Map Menu & booking

Lavapiés

Creative cooking, proper Neapolitan pizza and excellent-value Greek street food.

Tatema

A delicious contemporary restaurant focused on fire, smoke and creative sharing plates. Good vegetable choices, but not a vegan restaurant.

Map Official site

NAP Lavapiés

Cheap, good Neapolitan pizza: blistered crust, simple toppings and a lively casual room. Perfect when nobody wants a long dinner.

Map Official site

Egeo Suvlakeria

Very good Greek souvlaki, gyros and meze in a simple, informal place. Fast, flavourful and excellent value.

Map Official site

Vallecas

A tiny market taquería worth leaving the centre for.

Valletako

A tiny Mexican taquería inside the market and winner of “Best Taco in Spain” in 2024. Proper tacos in a very local setting. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Vegetarian fillings may be available, but ask explicitly about every ingredient if you need a fully vegan meal.

Map Current information

Vegan Madrid

These five restaurants are fully vegan, so there is no need to negotiate ingredients.

Mudrá

The polished option: creative plant-based cooking, beautiful presentation and a smart dining room. The current tasting menu is around €57.

Map Official site & booking

Santa y Pura

Relaxed, completely plant-based cooking with generous plates and a terrace. Easy for vegan and non-vegan groups eating together.

Map Official site

La Encomienda

Small, creative and fully vegan, with organic ingredients and more of a neighbourhood feel than a “health food” atmosphere.

Map Official site

Los Andenes Vegan

Fully vegan Peruvian cooking: ceviche-style dishes, causas and lomo-style plates. The most distinctive vegan option on this list.

Map Official site

After dark

Two hidden cocktail bars for after dinner — both have entrance rules worth checking first.

Jack's Library

A speakeasy hidden behind the Bonsai florist. Intimate, theatrical and focused on serious cocktails. Photography is not allowed inside.

Map Information & booking

Bad Company 1920

A prohibition-themed bar with password entry. Check the website or Instagram on the day for the current password. Adults only; no groups larger than ten.

Map Entry instructions

Pick a route

A few plans with enough structure to start and enough space to improvise.

Retiro to vermouth

  1. Breakfast near Retiro.
  2. Find the Jardines de Cecilio Rodríguez.
  3. Exit through Cuesta de Moyano.
  4. Walk into Barrio de las Letras.
  5. Finish with a vermouth at Matador.

La Latina without a checklist

  1. Start at Plaza de la Paja.
  2. Find the Príncipe de Anglona garden.
  3. Wander through La Latina.
  4. Stop for tapas.
  5. Reach Las Vistillas for sunset.

Rule: Pick streets that look interesting and stop somewhere crowded with Madrileños.

Matadero and Madrid Río

  1. Start at Matadero.
  2. Choose L.E.V. or La Odisea.
  3. Walk along Madrid Río.
  4. Cross one of the pedestrian bridges.
  5. Finish with food or drinks.

Station, frontón, tapas

  1. Andén 0 — reserve first.
  2. Walk through old Chamberí.
  3. Visit Frontón Beti Jai.
  4. Choose La Mina for a casual stop or Sala de Despiece for a booked meal.

Palace gardens to Las Vistillas

  1. Royal Palace area and Campo del Moro.
  2. Walk through Madrid de los Austrias.
  3. Continue to Plaza de la Paja.
  4. Find the Príncipe de Anglona garden.
  5. Stay at Las Vistillas for sunset, then dinner.

Tacos and the skyline

  1. Early tacos at Valletako if its market hours work.
  2. Explore a little of Vallecas.
  3. Head to Cerro del Tío Pío.
  4. Watch sunset from Las Siete Tetas.

Best for guests who already know central Madrid.

If you only have one day

  1. Morning: Retiro → Cecilio Rodríguez → Cuesta de Moyano → Prado.
  2. Lunch: Barrio de las Letras.
  3. Afternoon: Sol → Plaza Mayor → Royal Palace → Campo del Moro.
  4. Sunset: Las Vistillas or Las Siete Tetas.
  5. Evening: Tapas, wine and absolutely no dinner at 18:00.

If you are still functioning

  • Very low effort: Hotel Tapa Tour + a long lunch.
  • Somewhat functional: Retiro + Cecilio Rodríguez + vermouth.
  • Culture indoors: La Odisea or L.E.V.
  • Fresh air: Casa de Campo or Las Siete Tetas.
  • Surprisingly alive: El Capricho park.

Toledo + a walking tour

Toledo is the easiest high-impact day trip from Madrid: a dramatic historic city with Christian, Jewish and Muslim layers.

  1. Book morning and return Renfe Avant trains from Madrid Atocha.
  2. Allow time to reach the old city from Toledo station.
  3. Join a morning tour with a licensed guide.
  4. After lunch, choose two or three interiors rather than everything.
  5. Leave a little time to wander before the train home.

A guide is genuinely useful here. Toledo a Pie offers Spanish and English tours; compare meeting points and inclusions before booking.

Renfe Official tourism Walking tours Toledo a Pie

Before you go

Meal times: Lunch often starts around 14:00 and dinner around 21:00.

Reservations: Book sit-down restaurants for Friday and Sunday whenever possible. For classic bars, going early is often more useful.

Freshness: Opening hours, prices and reservation rules can change. Use each official and Google Maps link to check again before leaving.

Pasea Madrid: Never travel specifically for the El Capricho bunker or Alfonso XII viewpoint without a confirmed reservation.